At the end of June, Gabrielle Deelstra made a self-drive through northwestern Canada, exploring old mining villages and scenic nature parks. “I thought yukon was going to surprise me. But that it would be so overwhelmingly beautiful, I couldn’t have imagined.”
Vancouver
I arrived in Vancouver at the end of the morning. Because the flight to Whitehorse only went much later, I made a short visit to the city centre. After a delicious lunch and the‘Fly over Canada’ I still walked around: Vancouver turns out to be a unique mix of the big city, green parks and historic neighbourhoods. I remember that next time I only have to stay one night (or more) anyway…
The evening flight from Vancouver to Whitehorse treats you to beautiful vistas on snow-capped peaks. When landing, you will be introduced to the fact that it does not get dark in the summer. It has surprised me my whole trip that you can take a walk in the middle of the night while it only shines a tiny bit. With a real GMC YUKON XL on to the hotel.
Whitehorse
Whitehorse is the starting point for many trips. It is therefore the only city in Yukon. Here you have the opportunity to shop, stock up on some groceries and visit the few museums that can prepare you for the rest of the trip. Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre provides information about the last ice age and the MacBride Museum informs you about the history of Whitehorse and the gold rush. Anothermust see is the visitor centre, which is highly recommended in every larger place. Information about the situation on the roads, suitable walks and other valuable tips can be added to your luggage.
Kluane National Park
Along the Canyon Road on the way to Kluane National Park. This park consists of forest, glaciers and high mountains. Mount Logan, Canada’s highest mountain, is located in this gigantic park. Along the way, I make a short stop in Haines Junction to arrange a packed lunch that goes along with my walk. The guide is ready and after a while of climbing we reach our goal: a view to tell you! To get a good idea of the vastness, I definitely recommend a scenic flight.
Carcross
Via Klondike Highway to Carcross. Just the names of the roads make me find Yukon interesting, they make it even more adventurous and give you the idea of the old days. That’s a little different than the A28, isn’t it? Photo stops at the beautiful Emerald Lake and Carcross Desert is a must do. The village was originally called Caribou Crossing (caribou-crossroads) after the caribou that passed by here. In 1904 this was contracted to Carcross. The place grew by the White Pass & Yukon Route. Today, you can board the historic train here for a beautiful lakeside ride to Bennet, where the prospectors embarked on their arduous journey north. Bizarre landscapes pass you by and despite the tourist character I didn’t want to miss it. The stay at a good resort on a beautiful lake completes this day.
SOUTH CANOL ROAD
yes, and what did I have that big SUV for again? Exactly, off road drive! That is also the motto of the day. South Canol Road is a long but beautiful dirt route. Because there are no shops, gas stations or other amenities during the ride, I go with a full tank and a packed lunch. This road through the boreal forest, along fast-flowing rivers and over the treeless tundra of the Pelly Mountains is only accessible by 4×4. I have not seen much traffic, but an enthusiastic cyclist who was very happy with the bananas from my packed lunch; in Yukon one looks after each other while traveling I learned. After this I reach the mining village of Faro. A nice place before I go on to Carmacks.
Fort Selkirk, New
Yukon also has a rich history when it comes to First Nations. By boat, I’ll sail to Fort Selkirk and get to know the stories of the rise of the Hudson’s Bay Company, which changed the quiet lives of the original inhabitants forever. There are still a few old houses and there is a photo collage that goes through history.
Keno
In the afternoon I arrive via Mayo in Keno where the Silver Trail Highway ends. Keno flourished when silver was found in the hills, but is now a virtually abandoned village. In order to keep the miners’ spirit alive, the current inhabitants (about twelve) leave the village as much as possible in its former state. Old cars are parked everywhere and the houses have been refurbished in original style. After dinner comes the tip from a local: Now go to Signpost Hill before the weather turns. Off we go: after quite a stretch off road the sun comes through and I can look for miles over the hills. It makes you quiet! Here and there are still cottages and warehouses from the mining era. There is even a bit of snow and ice, which at the time didn’t make working in your personally claimed soil easy. It’s late when I return to the village but don’t mind because it’s not dark yet. After a nightcap in the bar of the giant Keno City Hotel, it’s over for today.
In the morning I go out with the camera and take a walk through the village. I keep marveling at life in this village and the people who live there. A visit to the mining museum gives a good picture of life in the mines. A nice introduction to my next stop: Dawson.
Dawson
After a stop at Dredge N4, I try to find gold in one of the streams. Unfortunately, only an experience richer… Then just to the viewpoint Midnight Dome for a good view of Dawson.
Tombstone Territorial Park
For me, travel also represents unexpected surprises, and to celebrate Canada’s 150th anniversary is one of them. The day starts at St Mary’s City Church for a Pancake Breakfast. Young and old are sliding, fantastic. The parade is also fun to experience; any organization can participate. The afternoon barbecue I let pass by, accompanied by a guide we enter the Tombstone Territorial Park for a walk through the mountains. Here, too, is enjoying tranquility and nature, while the guide points out bear tracks and edible plant species. On the Demster Highway back to Dawson, at one of the lakes a moose mother shows her young and a little further on beavers have made a large dam. After a delicious dinner of fresh salmon, it’s time to head to Canada’s oldest casino; Diamond Tooth Gerties Casino, for the Can-Can floorshow, yes yes.
Five Finger Rapids
The route takes me back to Whitehorse, with a photo stop at Five Finger Rapids. Here is also the possibility to walk all the way to the river. I’ve got some time to shop in Whitehorse. Now that I’ve seen more of Yukon, I realize that Whitehorse really is “the big city.” It is special how quickly you get used to a tiny village with one or two shops, a restaurant and a petrol pump. But here all the amenities are ample and I let my last Canadian spare rib taste good.
Early in the morning, my flight goes to Calgary. Again, there is opportunity for a lunch downtown and a dip in one of the shopping malls. On time I will be back at the airport and I can check in for the flight to Amsterdam.
What a lot I have seen and experienced! Yukon is a very beautiful special destination where nature, tranquility and pristineness are the most important assets. Add to that the wildlife and the friendly people and come to a conclusion of a beautiful and challenging destination. The slogan of breathtaking Yukon is: “Yukon, Bigger Than Life”.
