Jozef Verbruggen travelled to Botswana again in December. He enjoyed the wildlife, the delta and the great lodges of Wilderness. A brief account of an indescribable experience in an ever-enchanting country.
“The best way to travel from one island to another is, in my opinion, flying. When flying over the delta you get a good idea of the pristineness of this beautiful piece of earth.”
Botswana captures the imagination of a self-respecting safari-goer. The Okavango delta is rightfully one of the best regions on the continent for wildlife spotting. Of course the Big Five since the reintegration of rhino on the exclusive Chief’s Island. For the returning safarigoer you can not only observe the large game in good numbers, but also the smaller animals such as the ibex, common diver, serval, caracal, bat eared fox and, one of the rarest predators, the wild dog are abundant. And birdlife is fantastic here, with about 600 species you won’t be bored easily!
My journey begins in Central Kalahari Game Reserve, a chunk of nature of about 50,000 km2. Huge! Skewer buck, springbok, honey badger and of course not to mention the Kalahari lion. Black mane! Different bird species such as black korhaan, red backed shrike,secretary bird, our stork etc. etc.
Then a flight of about an hour and a half to the Okavango delta. This is “big game” country! I first visit the Tubu Tree camp located in the far southwest of the delta. Large Ilala palm trees interspersed with combretum, terminelia and sausage tree. The lodge is only five minutes from the landing strip but along the way we already see elephants, kudo, impala, forest buck and a dozen bird species. In the afternoon we follow a large herd of buffalo, the icon of the African bush.
A 10-minute flight takes me to the delta’s most exclusive island, Chief’s Island. This used to be the hunting ground for the local chiefs. The concentration of wildlife here is huge! A great diversity of antelopes and the accompanying top predators: lion, hyena, wild dog, caracal and serval.
The next destination we reach after a flight of 15 minutes: the old hunting ground of the Bechuana kings. Mombo Lodge is located in the north of the island. Chief’s Island is also called the land of “plenty”. Wildlife is huge, a beautiful area right in the middle of the delta, one of the best wildlife experiences on the African continent.
The next day a flight to Abu concession, Abu lodge. I’ve heard so much about elephant riding. I want to see and experience it with my own eyes. Abu is located on a private concession of 180,000 ha. The elephants, 7 pieces – 2 families, are kept in a large stable complex (also a part in the open air) and everything is taken care of in detail. The animals are happy, at least I get that feeling. Riding and walking with the elephants happens among other wildlife. From seven o’clock in the morning until the late afternoon the elephants can freely enter nature. It is possible that the animals do not come back, the choice is theirs.
I loved it! We had only just started the excursion or we were surprised by a pack of 25 wild dogs. At the end of the walk we got a visit from a bull of about 30 years. The greeting was intense. I can appreciate this, after all the elephants have a free choice and enjoy this freedom, every day. And they are supported by a team of caregivers.
Vumbura is also located in a private concession, you don’t meet a single tourist. A very difficult area where we make excursions on the lagoons and rivers with a mokoro (in shallow water) and by a speedboat (in deeper water with the use of hippos and crocodiles). Vumbura is best known for the many different species of antelope including the Sable antelope, large herds of buffalo and of course for a very healthy lion population.
My last stop is Linyanti, the best place to see roan and thousands of elephants. As well as three different packs of wild dogs. Phenomenal. Linyanti is much quieter than the river-facing Chobe national park, which is easy for day-time tourists to reach from Victoria Falls and Livingstone.
Conclusion:
Botswana in the rain, with all its colors and smells; I can recommend it to anyone. The Wilderness lodges where I stayed are all gems in nature: beautifully located and with tót guides. I’ve only met enthusiastic young people. From next year onwards, there will be no more hunting safaris in Botswana, a legitimate choice!
Botswana, I will always come back!
