I already know the African bush well, but every time I look for new locations that I have not yet discovered. This time I travel to Selous, a game reserve i have long been curious about, located in the south of Tanzania. I stay here for a week and stay in different lodges because it allows me to better discover the diversity of a single area.
After I land in Dar es Salaam, I fly straight through Cessna. Flying in on a small plane is always a big part of the travel experience. You fly relatively low; above the safari areas I can already see giraffes, hippos and elephants. And then the landing still has to be deployed!
Selous excels in the amount of giraffes
Selous is a park the size of Switzerland. A small part is used for safari. The landscape consists of both wooded areas and open savannah. There are many palm trees and several lakes that are connected to the mighty Rufuji River.
Because there is so much water, you will find a huge population of hippos in Selous. Day and night you can hear these animals breeze. Besides hippos, Selous has good populations of predators such as hyenas, lions, leopards and wild dogs. The latter are difficult to spot because they travel a lot and travel great distances. I’m lucky enough to see them, fantastic to observe this endangered species.
Elephants are also sure to be found there. Unfortunately, in the past there has been a lot of hunting for the ivory of these magnificent giants. However, the population is growing again so that gives hope for the future. However, these animals are frightened by the hunting past. Sometimes they are a bit harder to find, because they flee when they hear a car. Nevertheless, I have been able to see them up close several times. A feast for the eye to observe these highly sensitive animals in the wild. What Selous excels at is the amount of giraffes. You are guaranteed to see these beautiful animals several times every day.
My first two nights I stay at Selous Impala Camp, one of two camps in this area that are right on the river. From the central part where the lounge is and also the restaurant I enjoy the magnificent views of the turbulent Rufuji River. I dine in style under the stars and have breakfast during the safari en route. How nice is that, drinking your coffee while the giraffes watch you.
Falling asleep with the roar of lions makes me realize that I’m really in Africa
The second camp I stay in is Roho Ya of Asilia which excels in the experience and knowledge of the guides, the rangers. I too as an experienced safari traveller is surprised with facts and tidbits about the animals known to me that I did not know yet. My room is an extraordinarily comfortable safari tent. In the night I hear a hippo grazing right in front of my tent. With the roar of lions I fall asleep, a sound that makes me realize that I am really back in Africa.
While walking you experience nature much more intensely
What makes going on safari in Selous special is the diversity in activities. For example, there is a lot of walking, but besides the traditional jeep safaris there are also safaris done by boat. While walking, the sound of a jeep is missing and you hear and experience nature much more intensely. We see a civet cat fleeing, a hyena comes to see what we are doing and we hear a lion roaring in the distance.
A completely different approach than going on safari by jeep is to go out by boat. You see a lot of birds, which makes for variety. We see kingfishers, storks, herons and bee-eaters nesting in the river wall. We stop on a small island in the river and enjoy a glass of champagne while watching the sun set. Nowhere in the world are the sunsets as special as in Africa.
Having lunch on the boat, dining under the stars
Time for the next lodge, Siwandu is the oldest lodge in the park. It has been rebuilt several times because the original camp has been destroyed by natural disasters such as floods and a fire by lightning.
A large porch with a lovely sun lounger invites you to read and dole between safaris. I have lunch on the boat on the river, another surprise during my trip. Once again, my day ends with dinner under a sparkling starry sky.
I don’t think I’m going to run into anyone 90% of my time.
Selous is a park where you should not expect to see the big game within five minutes. You can see a lot of animals in Selous, but the safaris have to be done with a little patience and time. Instead, you get a park that you share with few other guests. I don’t think I’m going to see anyone 90% of my time, only at big sightings like lions and elephants I see other jeeps.
Due to the diversity of activities, the tranquility and the lack of large hordes of tourists I find Selous a wonderful destination that is more than worth a visit. Due to its location, a combination with, for example, Ruaha is a good option, this makes for a nice change. You can finish perfectly on zanzibar beach or on one of the exclusive islands that lie off the coast. As in Swahili it is said: “asante sana Selous”, thank you very much Selous! It was another top safari experience.
