“Travelling through India is so much more than visiting the sights. What I enjoyed the local rural life, the variety in scenery, the hospitality of the population. And of the colors, smells and the food…”
In October, Trees Piersma took a study trip through India. Read here how she experienced the Golden Triangle and three of the National Parks.
Delhi
My first surprise was immediately the city of Delhi; a big city with lots of greenery and parks. The beautiful Hamyuns Tomb (figure 1) is especially beautiful with morning light and then still nice and quiet. What struck me were the many birds in Delhi. From parakeets to buzzards, kites and multicolored Indian free-range. I also found the Sikh church, a colourful church where the principles of Hinduism emerge: “act as you want to be treated and do good for others”. A huge group of volunteers provide food daily for people in Delhi who can’t afford it themselves. I helped make chapatis for lunch.
The Mosque Fatehpuri Masjid is highly recommended, a beautiful building with colourful details (figure 2).
To explore the inner city of Old Delhi or New Delhi there are many possibilities: walking, with a rickshaw (pedicab) or tuktuk where the market and the small shops with spices appeal to the imagination. Or as I have done, with a tour of (ex)street children through the project Salaam Balak Trust. A very positive project with proud young people who told me, while walking through the city, what it is like to live on the streets, what shelter there is and show me that the children and young people help each other.
Of course, Delhi also has modern new neighbourhoods such as the airport or the trendy Haus Khaan district with the nice restaurants and boutiques. Very nice to go out to dinner in the evening.
Stay at least three nights in Delhi, so you have two full days to explore the city and acclimatise a bit. There is so much to see!
Rajastahn
The Rajastahn region is known for its beautiful cities with palaces, forts and colourful markets. Travelling from city to city is also worth it. The landscape consists of semi desert, small local villages inhabited by various tribes and impressive temples.
My arrival in Udaipur was in the late afternoon, which was lovely afterwards. Udaipur is the “City of lakes” with several islets. It’s full of lights here. I was taken to my accommodation by boat. I imagined myself in a fairy tale.
Between Udaipur and Jodpur lies Jawai; a small nature reserve where leopards occur. During a safari, peering at a priest who walked up the mountain to the temple, there were suddenly three leopards. Great!
Rohet Garh is a small settlement in a desert country. The accommodations Rohet Garh and Mihir Garh fit very well in this area. The families provide a welcoming reception and the food there is delicious! Those who like to ride a horse can make beautiful rides here. Be sure to make a stop at the authentic Bishnoi and the Brahmin peoples in the area to get acquainted with the local traditions and lifestyle. Maybe, like me, you have the chance to drink opium or smoke a traditional cigarette.
Jodpur is a friendly city fenced with sandstone walls that enclose the many bazaars and alleyways. You’ll explore the city best on a walking walk and enjoy many street hairdressers and colorful fabric vendors. Not to be missed it isMehrangarh Fort. An overnight stay in the palace of Jodpur is highly recommended!
Between all the activity of the larger cities in a stay at Chhatra Sagar a nice resting place. Spend the night in luxury tents overlooking a lake and surrounding reserve. Another warm welcome with Chai (tea) and homemade cookies. With passion the brothers talk about the reserve, the birds, animals and even a leopard. They also like to show you the surrounding countryside and put you in touch with the locals.
In Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, you notice that it is a university city. Lots of young people and a rich nightlife. Again an enchanting palace and beautiful city centre. I watched the Ajmer Fort with an early morning walk. Lovely to stretch your legs and walk over the wall of the fort and take pictures from a distance with morning light.
Madhya Pradesh national parks
And then it was time for the tiger. It was hard for me to imagine the national parks in India, afraid that nothing could stand the African bush. But wow, I was surprised! This was real jungle. A huge variety of trees, birds, antelopes, countless butterflies, monkeys, and yes, also a great opportunity to see tigers and leopards. I have to admit that I was sceptical about conservation and wildlife conservation in India, but i can only say that it has very good developments. There are no lodges in the national parks themselves and a limited number of safari vehicles are allowed per park (with limited access times). The local population is closely involved; if you go on safari you will always be accompanied by a local ranger. When tigers or leopards attack the cattle of the local population, this loss is compensated. All this has led to a rise in a healthy number of tigers and leopards.
I visited the National Parks Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh. All different from landscape. Pench is characterized by teak trees; the sunlight shines beautifully through the forest which gives beautiful views. In Kanah (this is where Walt Disney’s Junglebook took off) and Bandhavgar, Sal especially noticed trees and lots of bamboo. I myself found a walk with a local guide a must to enjoy the silence, the birds, butterflies, special spiders and beautiful trees and shrubs. A park on the rise is Satpura,where you can also take boat and canoe trips in addition to safaris.
There are beautiful lodges near the parks, from small-scale tented lodges to chalets. The transfers between the parks lead through beautiful mountain scenery and very authentic local villages full of colourful mud houses and activity. And always inviting for a cup of tea and conversation. During one of the transfers I was allowed to use the toilet with the driver’s mother. But not just that. Tea, a meal, cookies and above all tell. We didn’t understand each other, but we talked and laughed.
During a visit to India there is a great chance to experience a festival. When I was there, it wasDiwali, the feast of light. A Hindu festival honoring Lakshmi, the god of prosperity. This party always takes place after the rainy season. Everyone is busy cleaning the houses prior to the festival and gives the houses new fresh colours. (The clay and paint let go during the rainy season.) The day itself is celebrated in a family context with sacrifices, lots of sweets and closed with fireworks.
India has so much more to offer than what I’ve seen. The south with the many rice, tea and coffee plantations, rivers and beach. East withCalcutta AndVaranassi and especially to Kaziranga National Park where many rhinos can still be seen. For the adventurers, a trekking in the northernHimalayan Mountains a challenge and the snow leopard can be seen. So much to see. I’m definitely going back!
