I stay in colonial Quito before flying to the immense Amazon forest to get acquainted with the tropical flora and fauna of this pristine area during a cruise. After immersing myself in unadulterated Indian culture just north of Quito, my journey to the Mashpi Cloud Forest continues to explore from the most beautiful lodge in the world.
QUITO, VOLCANOES AND BAROQUE CHURCHES
What a lovely city it is! I stand on the Panecillo with its 45 meter high statue of the Virgin Mary and in front of me lies the vast capital of Ecuador: Quito. In the distance you can see the impressive Cayambe volcano. Unfortunately, the almost 6,000-metre-high snow-covered Cotopaxi – in my opinion the most beautiful volcano in the world – is not showing itself today due to too much cloud cover. Downstairs in the historic Unesco center I visit the beautiful San Francisco church, located on the eponymous square; one of the most beautiful in Latin America.
The mass is coming to an end. A scent of boswellia spreads and in the side chapels candles burn for the statues of saints. It is right in front of the Semana Santa and the deeply believing churchgoers are visibly moved by the mystical atmosphere in the opulent Baroque church. Walking past colonial churches I arrive at the Plaza Grande surrounded by the presidential palace, the archbishop’s palace and the cathedral. Elderly people discuss the latest gossip on a bench and street vendors try to get their where.
In the old town, a stay at Casa Gangotena with terrace overlooking the Plaza San Francisco is a unique experience but other hotels such as Mama Cuchara and the casa Aliso in the newer part of town are good choices.
TROPICAL ADVENTURE IN THE AMAZON JUNGLE
It’s a short flight that takes me from the Andes to the tropical rainforest. Along the way we see the Reventador ash spewing and beneath us the meandering jungle rivers. What a wonderful adventure awaits me… A few days on the unparalleled Anakonda cruise. From other South American countries I have experienced the jungle from lodges but this time it will be different; while sailing the green vegetation of the Rio Napo to let you glide past you it is pure enjoyment.
With a narrow canoe, the narrower tributaries are scoured for the prehistoric hoatzin bird, caimans and blue-yellow macaws. Exciting night safaris with tarantulas, a photogenic clay lick with numerous green parrots, large reddish-brown howler monkeys in the trees, fishing for the dreaded piranhas and not to mention the contact with the Indian Tagaeri and Taromenane Indian tribes will always stay with me. A cruise in the Amazon jungle is definitely a once in a life time experience!
COLONIAL HACIENDA AND COLORFUL INDIAN CULTURE
Back in the Andes it’s time to get acquainted with the beautiful region north of Quito. What a lovely place Hacienda Zuletais. In the middle of a green mountain landscape, this atmospheric colonial house with its guest quarters can serve as a base for interesting excursions. On foot, by bike but especially on the Zuleteño horses, the rural environment can be experienced. The hacienda is still in operation and produces delicious cheese. Cozy around the fire while enjoying a red wine we enjoy the tasteful locally produced cheeses.
A little further, of course, the colourful Indian culture around Otavalo is central. In their dark blue ponchos and long tails, the Otavaleno Indians color the streets. On Saturday it is a bustle of interest at the famous Saturday market. We are there on a weekday and even then it is well worth a visit. Just outside Otavalo, we experience an unforgettable mysterious cleansing ritual with a traditional shaman. With the help of alcohol, herbal forests, tobacco and fire, we are relieved of negative energy and get positive vibrations in return.
DESIGN ARCHITECTURE IN ENCHANTING CLOUD FOREST
The journey from Quito to one of the most beautiful lodges in the world is wonderful. The transition from the high Andes to the cloud forest is enchanting. Winding along steep walls with tropical vegetation and a view of waterfalls, we arrive at the excellent Mashpi Lodge, which is labelled “National Geographic Unique Lodge” for a reason. The entrance is overwhelming… what a unique place this is. Sleek design architecture, spatial structures and rooms with panoramic windows that make you feel like you are part of the cloud forest.
Immediately we go with a biologist on the howler monkey trail to the observation center with his interesting butterfly garden. Beautiful vistas, colourful birds and weasel cats. Before we return to Quito it is early to make a spectacular ride by Sky Bike. The mist patches slide along the peaks of the exotic cloud forest. Special to experience the wondrous nature from above. Too bad, we have to go home again… The Mashpi Lodge has so much more to offer: hikes past crystal clear waterfalls, a hummingbird garden and chance to spot sensational mammals like the ocelot and cougar!
During the comfortable return flight with KLM I already dream about a return visit to the fascinating Ecuador… Guamote’s colourful Indian market, the green crater lake Quilotoa, the amazing Nariz del Diablo train journey, the snowy peaks of the Cotopaxi and Chimborazo volcanoes, the historic Cuenca and of course the unparalleled nature on the Galapagos Islands!
