Dear Griet and Untamed team,
Thank you for the nice card we found in the mail on arrival. More than a week after my return from Africa I am writing our report, hopefully it will be of some use to you. We are still in a daze, it was all that fantastic. It seemed much longer than the two weeks we were actually gone, so that's a good sign!
The train journeys to Paris/CDG went well. The delay started at the airport just before boarding, when there were problems with some passengers (including a group of young people) over the new regulation for traveling with underage children to South Africa. Not everyone understood that and even though we were okay, we had to join and there were only two members of staff who knew exactly what to check. So we left with a good hour delay and landed later in Johannesburg.
At the airport we were met by Sense from the car rental company who would take us to the office for the rental car. On the way already stopped by the police because there were six of us in the car while max. five were allowed in. The rental company should have said that to Sense who picked us up. Hopefully he was able to settle the fine with his employer. Once we arrived we got a super car (Toyota Fortuner) that took us everywhere without any problems, even if the 4x4 had to be used in Mozambique! Sufficiently spacious for five people and luggage. The explanation only took quite a long time (it was also necessary) so we left quite late, I think only at 2 pm or 2.30 pm with a trip of at least five hours ahead according to the driving instructions from OR Tambo to Chestnut Country Lodge.
It took some getting used to driving on the left, the car and the roads that are fortunately in excellent condition, but 120 km is quite fast on a road where there is no central reservation and large trucks (full of wood!) pass you close by and where it is at 6 pm darkens very quickly. There was also something nasty about those controlled roadside fires everywhere. It turned out that the driving instructions to Chestnut were wrong, we drove at least 100 km too much from Hazyview to Sabie which was not necessary. So arrived quite cooked at 8pm after calling Chestnut twice – once to ask to make dinner reservations, and once to ask for an explanation when we'd driven too far.
Nice people in Chestnut where we received a warm welcome, received food and slept well. The next morning after breakfast we left for Balule and for the first time we could enjoy the beautiful Panorama Route in daylight. We didn't dare to stop too much because we wanted to be on time for our first safari. We only stopped at God's Window (we didn't really think wow) and unfortunately we didn't buy any souvenirs there. We thought we would come across hundreds of stalls which was not the case, so I would recommend everyone to buy souvenirs there at the beginning of the trip because they looked very nice!
The Sausage Tree camp in the Balule Reserve was great! The welcome was super warm, the lodges were beautiful, the food delicious and all the people were friendly; owner Richard, guide and spotter Liam and Timba, Jason, the cook and other staff I can't remember the names of, everyone. The two morning and two evening safaris were also the end. Saw a lot of game including elephants, lions, a black rhinoceros and a cheetah. Also received a lot of interesting explanations from everyone. And of course we saw the real Sausage Tree!
On Sunday 12 July, after the morning safari and breakfast, we left for the Kruger Park via the Phalaborwa gate. The Mopani rest camp was OK, but not comparable to the Sausage Tree – our kids already called it Center Parcs. We drove around the Kruger Park for a while, and saw hippos and crocodiles at sunset, and then we had to be back in the camp before 6 pm. That evening and the next morning we enjoyed the beautiful view in the restaurant and saw fat crocodiles that came to sunbathe! The drive through Kruger on Monday morning was beautiful. We had to stop for hundreds of buffalo crossing the road and saw something everywhere.
At the Giriyondo border post a lot of formalities had to be arranged and we had the feeling that we were being rolled in all directions, especially on the Mozambican side, it was paying for the 3rd party allowance, for the park, for so and so .
The road to Machampane Wilderness was nice, a long dirt road of sand and stones where we were only allowed to drive 40 km without meeting anyone. The camp was also cosy, the tents were a little less luxurious but fine and with a beautiful view. By the way, this park was not fenced, so wildlife could always walk in, which is an exciting idea. The safaris we did with Emilio, the South African guide, could not be compared to those in Sausage Tree, and the two walking safaris in particular were disappointing. We started the first afternoon with a jeep ride to a pile of giraffe bones, and we didn't see a single animal. Not bad in itself, but it could have been explained to us all a bit better and the safaris could have been much more interesting and attractive if the guide(s) would give some more text and explanation because there is really game, but it is not easy easy to see (we saw tracks and excrement). We eventually understood that the game is slowly coming back from Kruger but is still very skittish so not easy to find. Because Mozambique was at war well into the 1990s, a lot of game was (and is) hunted and poached. The whole principle of reserves and protection of nature and training rangers and attracting tourists, which is so well organized in South Africa, is still in its infancy in Mozambique. During the walking safari we never actively followed a trail, it was more like a nature walk. Also during the evening safari saw nothing except an elephant from afar. The aperitif was very pleasant and in a nice place. Unfortunately, the guides found slings and bait, and showed how the poachers work.
We liked the camp itself - we were really in the wilderness even though we didn't see any big game. From our terrace we have seen crocodiles and a monitor lizard, monkeys, birds of prey and many bucks with binoculars.
On Wednesday 15/7 - a morning safari would not work with a seven hour drive ahead of us - we drove on time to Chidenguele via the Massingir Dam, Chokwe and Macia. Warning about the gigantic potholes was not a luxury. Also not respecting the 60 km, because we saw a lot of police (with or without speedgun). A beautiful, colorful tour with lots of people, children and stalls. Unbelievable how children play and cycle two meters from the highway, and people work and live so close to the road. Also a beautiful green landscape with palms, banana and other fruit tree plantations and cheerful huts. A long drive where we only stopped briefly in Macia and Xai Xai, but the last part where the 4x4 was needed took quite long, so all in all it took us at least 8 hours.
Naara Eco-Lodge was a piece of paradise on earth! Beautiful lodges and garden/pool with breathtaking views of the lake, especially at sunrise and sunset. We had three wonderful days here, the highlight being the whale watching via Sera Lodge. That was very authentic with the driving on the beach behind the tractor with boat, the wave by Mark's wife once on the water, and Mark's enthusiasm when a whale was seen. We saw humpback whales jumping out of the water from 30 meters away, beautiful! The only downside to Naara was that we had hoped to be able to go to a restaurant nearby in the evening (we had a bed and breakfast formula), but that was not possible. There was nothing around and having to go on the 4x4 road in the dark at night was not really advisable. So we took lunch and dinner in Naara three times which was quite expensive for the quality you got. But otherwise Naara lodge was really a dream destination!
On Saturday 18/7 we drove back via Xai-Xai and Macia to Maputo. We messed up a bit there because they are building a big new highway around Maputo (which we were sometimes allowed to drive at 60km/h!) but which suddenly turned into dirt road again, very unreal. The signposts were missing or very unclear so we had to ask for directions several times and finally had to take the EN4 towards South Africa / Komatipoort. At dusk we arrived at the border between Mozambique and South Africa, and it was dark when we arrived at the Komati River Chalets. The Chalets were in good order and a great base to visit Kruger again.
We did that the next day, on Sunday. From Komatipoort we entered the park via Crocodile Bridge. We saw a lot of wildlife that day. In the evening we had a nice meal in a restaurant that was advised to us by the cook (on Sundays it was not possible to eat in the Komati River Chalets).
The drive to Johannesburg on Monday went smoothly and we were right on time to return the car. The last night in the Safari Club was also okay. The next morning a guide came to pick us up to visit the Apartheid Museum and Soweto, all very impressive, especially the contrast between rich and poor in Soweto. You can buy some souvenirs on the spot. Then it was over and we had to go to the airport. The return journey went well, we were back home at 11:30 am on Wednesday 22/7.
We look back on a wonderful adventurous journey in which we were able to see many facets of the two countries and enjoyed it immensely. Bai thanks for the beautiful program you have put together for us!
Cordial greetings,
Marianne, Jan, Daphne, Florence & Max