Northern Patagonia on horseback

After an exhausting night flight and an exciting transfer in Buenos Aires, I’m finally on the daily flight to San Martin de los Andes in Northern Patagonia. I soon leave the small airport of this ‘laid-back’ town and soon the road becomes gravel, sand and dust: no traffic and no reach, but what a beautiful area!

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

And what’s called: endless riding with the gauchos in the most wild and spectacular part of the Lake District, very different cake than the jet set in Bariloche. The Estancia near the border of Chile is 20,000 hectares and has several landscapes: pampas with cattle (mainly cattle), mountains with ancient Auracania trees (umbrella trees, Monkey Puzzle tree), glacial lakes, wild rivers and quiet ditties. April is the beginning of autumn and the colours are truly beautiful – also called Indian Summer;   appropriate because in the national park there are still some tribes of mapuche Indians.

On the Estancia you really have the feeling to experience the tradition: the 60 beautiful horses, clothes and decoration woven by Mapuche women, the tough gauchos who take care of the cattle and the original local dishes such as empanadas, asado (grilled sheep) and beef on the parilla (barbecue).

Santiago, the horseman, a former famous polo player has grown up with the ranch – he lives for the animals, nature and Patagonia. Together with his family and family, the tradition of the ranch has been maintained for five generations. A magical place, as far as I’m concerned, the best kept secret in Northern Patagonia!

After the Emotions fair in Buenos Aires I continue my trip with a trip to the immense waterfalls of Igauzu. Despite my many trips to Argentina this had never happened. ‘Better late than never’, shall we say… What a natural violence and a beautiful area!
On arrival on the Brazilian side (the airport on the Argentinian side is closed due to work) I first visit the Belmond Das Cataratas hotel: by far the number one on the Brazilian side. Beautifully located in the national park itself and with excellent service, beautiful courtyard and large swimming pool; some suites have views of the falls.

The special thing about visiting the waterfalls on the Brazilian side is that you have a beautiful view of the Argentinian side; while during a visit to the Argentinian side you really experience the waterfalls more, get close to them and so get soaked. I definitely recommend a visit on both sides and a stay of at least three nights in this beautiful area, which also gives quite a lot of jungle experience.

I stay at the LOI Suites on the Argentinian side. The new neighbours, the All Inclusive hotel Awasi, offers not only the waterfalls but also many ‘experiences’ in this Atlantic rainforest with a great chance of spotting wildlife, including the cougar. There is also room for culture, such as the Jesuit ruins and the Guarani Indians. Another recommended for staying in the jungle is
Yacutinga Lodge,
away from the masses. The former Sheraton (now Melia   Iguazu)is the only one in the national park on this side, but is currently (April 2018 ed.) extensively renovated – the views of the waterfalls are by far the best from this hotel.

Spend an entire day visiting the Argentinian side of the falls, and especially take a boat ride (La Gran Aventura) that comes under or near the falls. Wet through and through, but worth it! If you have more time, take a jungle trip or visit the Guarani Indians.